Zipped Case Tutorial

 Zipped Sewing Travel Case Tutorial.

 ***Edited to add:  Please use bias binding instead of straight grain binding.  I think I must’ve had a bad experience with it previously, but now bias binding is all I use for anything with rounded edges!***

finished dimensions (open): 10.5″ x 15″
finished dimensions (closed):  7″ x 10.5″

supplies needed:
1/2 yard linen or other heavy-ish weight fabric
FQ accent fabric
FQ binding fabric
*FQ or other detail work for the front cover, if desired

12″ zipper (10″ may work IF it is at least 10.5″) for vinyl pocket
26″ zipper for perimeter

12″ x 12″ piece of light weight vinyl (I used 8 gauge)

FQ of Annie’s Soft and Stable (or thick sew in/fusible interfacing)

1/2yd light weight fusible interfacing

10″ piece of 1/4″ elastic

1 package 1/4″ Pellon Lite EZ-Steam II (photo below) or other heat fused strips (not a sponsored tutorial.)

1/4″ seams unless stated otherwise

Step 1: Cutting
1a. Begin by first deciding what you want your case exterior to look like.  In the example above, I have a 4" x 11" strip of fabric and some crocheted lace sewn to a 12" x 11" piece of linen .  The finished exterior piece ultimately needs to be 10.5" x 15", but I tend to start big so I can cut it down later. Also, now is a great time to sew on a label to the exterior as well, if desired.

1b. Cut the finished interior/lining piece, and the Soft and Stable to 10.5" x 15" as well.
1c. Cut the two pocket binding pieces - 1.5" x 11" each.
1d. Cut the two zipped pocket strips - 1.25" x 11" each
1e. Cut the center strip - 2" x 11".
1f. Cut the two pocket pieces: 9" x 11" and 11.5" x 11"
1g. Cut the vinyl to 6" x 11" (will be further cut down later)
1h. Cut the elastic into three pieces, each 2 3/4" (there will be a little left over to discard)
1i.  Cut/piece 57 inches of a 2" wide strip for binding

Step 2: Interfacing
2a. With the lightweight fusible interfacing, interface the two zipped pocket strips and the center strip. You do not need to interface the two pocket binding strips.
2b. If desired, interface the exterior main piece and interior/lining main piece.

Step 3: Prepare the pockets
3a. Fold both pocket pieces in half, so you now have a 4.5" x 11" piece and a 5.75" x 11" piece.  Crisply press the folded edge. Set aside.
3b. To make the pocket bindings, take each of the 1.5" x 11" strips and make double fold binding.  To do this, fold each piece along the long edge and press.  Then open up, and fold each long edge to the center, and press again.  Then fold the piece so the folded edges line up, and press again.

3c. Using the EZ-Steam or clips, press the folded edge of each pocket into the fold of the binding.  Edge stitch.

3d.  Baste the two pockets together at the long raw edges with an 1/8" seam.

3e. If desired, make divides on the smaller pocket by joining up the two pockets at their raw edges, and sew divisions at 3.5", 3.5", and 2" from the left edge.

3f. Then baste the pockets to the interior/lining piece, also with an 1/8" seam on the three outer edges. Set aside.

Step 4. Prepare the vinyl pocket and zipper
4a. With long edges aligned, sew one of the zipped pocket strips to the vinyl piece.  Finger press the fabric away from the vinyl, and edge stitch for a finished look.

4b. Lay the zipper, right side down, on top of the raw edge of the fabric strip in the above step, and using zipper foot, sew together. Finger press the zipper away from the fabric, and edge stitch for a finished look.

4c. Lay the second fabric strip on top of the zipper, RST, with long sides aligned and sew together.  Finger press the fabric away from the zipper, and edge stitch for a finished look. Starting with the zipper partially unzipped, and then zipping closed when halfway prevents the zipper pull from getting in your way.

4d. Cut the entire vinyl zipped piece so that it measures 7.25" x 10.5". The zipper should be parallel to the 10.5".
4e. Baste this to the interior/lining piece using an 1/8" seam on the three outer edges.  Now the pockets and the zipped vinyl piece should all be basted to the interior piece.

Step 5. Prepare the center strip
5a. Take the interior/lining piece of fabric and along the top 15" edge, measure and mark where 7" and 8" are.  Repeat for the bottom long edge.

5b. With a disappearing marker, connect the dots you drew so you have two lines, at 7" and 8" running down the middle of the piece, vertically. (I only did little hash marks in this one).  You'll have to lift up the vinyl to draw your line/dots on the 8" line. The horizontal lines you see are for the next step.

5c. From the bottom long edge, measure and mark at 2 3/8", 5 1/4", and 8 1/8".  These will be the places your elastic will go.  Draw a line across at each of these points. (see above pic)
5d. Take your three elastic pieces, and mark 1/4" on both edges.

5e. Using the EZ-Steam, place 1" pieces on each of the three horizontal lines you drew in step 5c. You will be placing the EZ-Steam over the 1/4" of vinyl that extends between the 7" and 8" lines. Finger press for better contact, then lift off the paper.

5f.  Using the pictures for reference, place a piece of elastic at the top horizontal line, so that the 1/4" mark measured on the elastic lines up with the 7" line you drew in step 5a. The raw edge of the elastic will end up tucked under the center piece by a 1/4".  Do not yet worry about the other end of the elastic.  Repeat this for the other two elastic pieces.

5g. Apply a long piece of EZ-Steam down the very center of the back of the center piece. This will help hold the raw edges in place, and will allow you to keep it where you place it in the next step.

5h. Peel off the paper from the EZ-Steam in step 5g, and place the center strip onto the interior/lining piece, along the big rectangle that you've drawn out between the 7" and 8" markings.  This will cover the elastic edges you already secured in step 5f. Do not yet iron into place.
5i.  Now, you'll secure the other edges of the elastic under the center strip, again making sure to line up the 1/4" mark you drew on the elastic with the 8" line on the interior piece. There should still be some EZSteam
on those small lines, and that will help the elastic to stick. Repeat for the remaining two pieces of elastic.

5k. With low heat, secure the elastic and the center strip where the EZ-Steam strips were placed, being extra careful not to touch the iron to the vinyl.

Step 6. Sew down the center strip
6a. Lay the exterior down, right side down. Lay the Soft and Stable on top of that.  Finally, lay the interior/lining piece on top of that.  Add a few wonder clips to secure the layers together.  This step will serve to secure the vinyl pocket, secure the elastic, and join all three layers together.

6b. (I found my stitch-in-the-ditch foot helpful here) Sew down the left side of the center strip with an 1/8" seam.  As you get to each piece of elastic, gently press the elastic flat and to the left so that its out of the way, but will get caught in the 1/8" seam.  When I remembered, I'd lower my stitch length as I got closer to the elastic so that it was extra secure since it would be pulled on and stretched quite a bit when in use.  But, I don't always remember :)

6c. Repeat for the other side of the center strip.

Step 7.  Finishing
7a.  Trim any excess/overhang away from the 10.5" x 15" size.
7b.  Baste around the entire case, securing all layers together to prevent shifting.
7c. Round the four corners to your liking.  I used the widest spool base I had.

7d.  If desired, add a tab to your exterior zipper.  Take a 1.5” x 3” width of fabric (if using a wide zipper, you may need to make a wider piece) and fold in the short sides by ¼” and press. Fold in the 3” sides by ¼” and press.  Fold in half and then place the zipper end into the fold, and edge stitch around all sides. 
7e. Refer to the picture, and place the zipper around the case, securing with wonder clips often.   To start,have the zipper facing right side up with the interior of the case facing up as well.  Beginning at the top of the center strip, line up the zippers edge with the case, and fold the zipper's excess away from the case, creating a 45' angle. I aligned the zipper's teeth with the right edge of the center strip. Clip the zipper to the bag at the raw edges until you get to the bottom of the center strip.  Repeat for the other side of the case, making sure the zipper doesn't shift. Refer to the picture to see how to fold up the bottom edge of the zipper. Clip the zipper at the curves. I used the bottom elastic to hold the zipper end in place while I sewed these last few steps.  Sew the zipper down with a 1/4" seam, completely around the case.

7f.  Fold the binding strip in half and press along the long edge.

7g.  Clip or pin the binding strip to the interior of the case just over the zipper you sewed in, raw edges together, like you were binding a quilt.  Sew around the perimeter of the case leaving a 10" gap on one long end.  I don't actually clip the curves on the binding; I like that the taut curves help the binding to flip over to the other side when its time to handsew the binding down to the exterior.  Turn the case over to be sure that you haven't inadvertently folded any seams over.  Sew binding down with a 1/4" seam, backstitching at each end. Join the edges together however you prefer; search "joining quilt binding ends" if you need ideas/specific steps.

7h.  If necessary, reduce the seam allowance of the outer perimeter so your binding fits over it.  I personally like the look of narrower binding, but you may not.

7i.  Handstitch the binding down to the exterior, being careful to gently gather your binding as you sew around the curves.

You're done! Time to fill it with lots of fun goodies!

Source: www.ohhowsweet.com