PDF DOWNLOAD BAG PATTERN
Step 1A: Print out the pattern PDF templates on pages 10 –19. Make sure the scaling is set to None and the Auto Center and Rotate is checked in the print set up.
Step 1B: Cut out the shapes and tape them together. Cut directly on the bold black line and leave some over lapping room along the dotted lines. You will have 3 large template pieces the pleat, pocket and outer shell. If you know that you will make more than one of these totes make rectangle templates for other pieces listed on page 3 and label each piece.
I highly recommend making one 15”X15” template and folding it for the smaller 15”X11” template and doing the same for the 5” pieces. Make one 5” template for the longest rectangle shape 5”X28” and fold it for the other measurements (Make sure you mark it so you have it recorded for the next weekender tote you make.)
Materials:
Fabric A outer shell (side panels of pleat) .5 yard
Fabric B outer shell (inside pleat), tote base, lining and interior pocket 2.5 yards,
Fabric C top border: .5 yard Fabric D straps: .5 yard
Fabric E interior pocket .5 yard
Heavy weight interfacing 3 yards
1 magnet clasp
Step 1C: Cut out the pattern pieces.
Fabric
4- Outer shell side panels 15“X 11” from Fabric A
2- Outer shell inside panels 15”X15” from Fabric B
2- Top border panels 5”X 20” from Fabric C
2- Straps 5”X 28” from Fabric D
2- Lining cut using template from Fabric B
1- Pocket using template from Fabric E and B
1-5”X21” Tote Base from Fabric B (outer shell)
1-5”X21” Tote Base from Fabric B (lining)
Interfacing
2- 15”X36” Fusible interfacing for the pleated fabrics after they are sewn together.
2- 5”X21” Fusible heavy weight interfacing pieces for the base
2- 5” X20” Fusible heavy weight interfacing for the top border panels
2- 2.5”X 28” Fusible heavy weight interfacing for the straps
2- Fusible heavy weight interfacing for the lining use template
1- Fusible heavy weight interfacing for pocket use template.
Step 2: Place the 15” X11” Fabric A panel and the 15”X15” Fabric B panel right sides together and sew a 1/2” seam allowance along the 15” side of the two panels.
Now place the other 15”X11” Fabric A panel right sides together on top of the 15”X15” Fabric B panel. Sew again a 1/2” seam allowance along the 15” side of the two panels. Follow this step again for other patchwork pleat.
Step 3: Iron the four seams open on the two patchwork pleat panels. Then iron the two outer shell patchwork panels to the 15”X 36” fusible heavy weight interfacing pieces for each side of the bag.
Fold the patchwork panel in half, right sides together and crease. Then fold the patchwork panel at the seams, iron and pin each seam to the center of the panel at the center crease.
Let the sides of the outer shell fan out. The top of the pleat will not be straight. Approximately 10” of fabric B, the center fabric, will show at the bottom of the pleat. Sew 1/4” from the center of the pleat in a straight line over both sides. Do this step again for the second pleated outer shell
Step 4: Iron the two 5”X 28” strap pieces to the center of each 2.5”X 28” fusible heavy weight interfacing piece. Fold once in half lengthwise and iron, fold outer edges inward toward the center line and iron, finally fold the strap in half again and iron. Do this again for the other strap. Fuse all interfacing pieces to the coordinating fabrics. Take the two folded and ironed straps and sew 1/4” seam allowance along both sides, first the open side of the strap and then the folded side of the strap.
Step 5: Fold the pleated patchwork panels in half at the center pleat wrong sides together.
Cut both pleated patchwork panels using the pleat template. Make sure both pleated outer shell panels are the same in size. Diagram is the pleated panel before cutting and Diagram is after.
Place the straps upside down on either side of the sewn pleat rough edges together and pin. (This way your machine will not have to sew over too many thick layers of material.) The strap placement lines on the template are approximate, so please place your straps on either side of your pleat shown in diagram.
Step 6: Place the 5”X 20” border on top of the strap that is on top of the pleated outer shell right sides together. The strap is sandwiched in between the border and pleated panel. Make sure the straps are the correct length for you. Adjust the strap to your own liking and pin in place.
Sew a 3/4” seam allowance straight across the top. (Make sure you sew over the pleated seam line, if you do not the stitching will show!) Open the panel up iron the border up so in the back the border is over the seam. Also press the straps up and pin. Topstitch 3/8” seam allowance over the border and straps. Cut the excess border using the outer shell template.
Step 7: Place both completed outer shell panels right sides together and pin both sides of the bag together.
Sew a 1/2” seam allowance down both sides of the weekender tote. (Diagram 7a) Take the 5”X21” tote base and pin the middle of the 5” side of the base to the side seam of the bag right sides together. Pin the rest of the base to the bag.
Make sure the short sides of the base are aligned with the side seams. Approximately 10” of fabric B, the center fabric, will show at the bottom of the pleat. Sew the base to the bottom of the bag. With the bottom of the bag facing up sew around the base using a 1/2” seam allowance.
At the base corners pivot your needle by putting it in the down position and lifting up the presser foot, move the fabric 90 degrees. Then lower the presser foot and sew to the next corner. Trim the corners and turn right side out. Check your entire seam (inside and out) when you have sewn this step to be sure that all corners are caught inside the seams. You are finished with the outer shell!!!
Step 8: Place the two pockets fabrics E and B right sides together (One pocket piece is fused with interfacing.)
and sew a 1/2” seam allowance across the top of the pocket. Flip the pocket right side out and iron. At the fold, sew a 1/4” seam allowance across the top of the pocket. Pin this pocket to the lining 5” from the top of the lining, rough edges together. Pin the pocket to the lining and sew down the center of the pocket and lining. This makes 2 slip pockets!
Step 9: Pin the pocket panel and the lining panel right sides together. Sew a 1/2” seam allowance down both sides of the lining.
Step 10: Use the template for the placement of the magnet clasp. Mark the lining on either side. Cut small holes on the marks on both lining panels. Take the 2”X 2” heavy weight interfacing and cut it in half. Fold the 2”X 1” in half so it is 1”X 1”, place the metal plate on the folded interfacing and draw the straight lines onto the interfacing.
Cut the interfacing through both layers. Now you push the tabs of the clasp through the holes of the fabric right side facing. On the backside place the interfacing over the tabs of the clasp. Finally place the metal plate over the tabs of the clasp. Fold the tabs over the center of the plate. (Diagram 10c) Repeat for the other side.
Step 11: Take the 5”X21” tote base and pin the middle of the 5” side of the base to the side seam of the bag right sides together. Pin the rest of the base to the bag. Make sure the short sides of the base are aligned with the side seams. Sew the base to the bottom of the bag. Sew with the base of the tote up, start to sew on the lining side without the pocket.
Sew around the base using a 1/2” seam allowance until you get back around to the lining side without the pocket. Leave a 4” opening on the side without the pocket, so we can turn the bag right side out later in the project.
At the base corners pivot your needle by putting it in the down position and lifting up the presser foot, move the fabric 90 degrees. Then lower the presser foot and sew to the next corner.
Leave the lining wrong side out.
Step 12: With a ruler, draw a straight line on the interfacing side of the bag’s lining 1/2” from the top.
This will be a great sewing guide! Place the outer shell inside the lining right sides together. Tuck the straps in and pin top edges of the outer shell and lining together. Make sure the side seams line up.
Sew 1/2” seam allowance around the entire weekender tote using the line you drew earlier.
Trim the excess and turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining. Iron the top edge of the weekender tote and topstitch using a 1/4” seam allowance around the top edge.
Iron the lining opening closed and sew a 1/4” seam allowance to close the opening.
Tuck the lining back into the bag, iron and you are finished!!
More Suggestions:
If you want to make your weekender tote sturdier, cut out two side pieces and one base piece of plastic canvas (used for cross stitching) the shape of your weekender tote. Roll it up and insert it through the lining opening. After sewing the lining closed, tack the plastic canvas by using a few stitches through the lining and under the outer shell pleat on both sides of the bag. It will make your weekender tote stand up for itself.
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