Half Square Triangle Pouch Tutorial

 The Half Square Triangle Pouch is a flat square-shaped quilted pouch with a zipper running diagonally across the front. Finished size is 10cm (4") square. It is tiny but opens wide and holds more than it looks. Using this pattern, you will be able to make two HST pouches at the same time, so it is perfect for gift giving. You can keep one for yourself!

 Here is the trick to create this clean and simple look---It's one continuous zipper tape. For this tutorial I used zippers called "Free Style Fastener" which comes 120cm single zipper tapes and pulls separately.  You can find them online but if you can't find this kind of zipper, then any long nylon coil zipper will work. You separate a zipper into 2 tapes and 1 pull. Just cut off the zipper stop at the both ends and slide the zipper pull out. Ta Da! You have a one-sided zipper to use!

NOTE: There are some types of zippers (such as metal and invisible zippers) will not work. Also, you will have to use 1 extra zipper pull so you can make your 2nd pouch. They are hardly seen at a local sewing store but you can buy them online. If it is not easy for you to get 1 extra zipper pull, then just buy 2 zippers so you will have enough pulls for this project.

-    Two small print contrasting fabrics for outer fabric. Must be large enough to cut a 45-45-90 right triangle with 27cm (11") equal sides

NOTE: Only a small part of the fabric will be seen in the front so small print is best.

-    One 30.5cm (12") square fabric for lining and binding

-    One 27cm (11") square low loft batting (I used fusible fleece for this tutorial)
- Two 40cm (16") or longer one-sided zipper tapes and two zipper pulls (referring to MADE THE ONE-SIDED ZIPPER below)

-    Rotary cutter and mat
-    Clear acrylic gridded ruler
-    Sewing clips
-    Point turner
-    Basting thread (optional)
-    Frixion pen (optional)

Free Style Fastener (YKK brand zipper from Nippon Chuko) I used "mini size" for this tutorial.

Plastic molded zipper (right) also works well

MAKE THE ONE-SIDED ZIPPER
When using a regular nylon coil zipper, we want to separate the zipper into 2 halves. Start by cutting off the zipper stop at the both ends of the zipper. Then, slide the zipper pull off and you will have separated the zipper tape into 2 halves. Put aside the tape and the pull. We will reattach the pull to the tape after we install the tape on the fabric!

CUTTING INSTRUCTION

1.    Cut 45-45-90 right triangles of equal sides 27cm (11") from the two small print fabrics you chose for the outer fabric.

NOTE: Each of outer fabrics should be lower half of triangle otherwise the finished pouch will look upside down. If you use non-directional prints, you can use upper half too.

2.    Cut two 45-45-90 right triangles of equal sides 26cm

(10 1/4") for lining out of 30.5cm (12") square. Then cut the remaining middle piece into two equal strips. The bias strips will be 3cm (1 3/16") wide.

SEWING INSTRUCTION

1. Put outer fabric pieces with right sides together. Stitch the long edge using 1cm (3/8") seam allowance. Press seam open
2. Baste batting to the wrong side of pieced panel as desired. I used fusible fleece and fused with iron.

3.    Quilt the panel as desired. My method is to use longer stitch length (3.5mm) and stitch in the ditch on the seam. Then stitch parallel lines 2cm(3/4") back and forth to fill the space. (I used my Frixion pen to mark parallel lines. The marks disappear with iron but they will reappear if it gets cold)

4.    Trim off the excess batting.

INSTRUCTIONS CONTINUED

Now you start to see that we are making TWO pouches at the same time!

5.    Cut the panel diagonally in half so each side has both fabrics. Place a zipper tape good side down on the panel right side facing up. Leave the excess of the zipper tape at the both ends as they are. We will insert a pull on the tape from here. Then, the lining fabric wrong side up, lining up with the edges. Use sewing clips or basting thread to keep it from moving. Stitch using a 0.7cm (1/4") seam allowance.

NOTE: For nylon coil zippers, the raised part is the good side.

NOTE: Lining fabric is larger than the pieced panel but don't worry. We will trim later.

6.    Press the seam open, and fold the lining over the seam.

Now the quilted panel and the lining are wrong sides together. Press again. Use sewing clips or basting thread and topstitch along the seam.

7.    Fold the panel so that the zipper tapes meet in the center front diagonally. Make sure the point where two fabrics meet is on the folded corner.

8.    Reattach the pull on the tape.

NOTE: For nylon coil zippers, reattaching the zipper pull may be a little tricky. It helps if you cut about 2cm (3/4") of the zipper teeth off of 1 side of the tape. Then slide the uncut side first into the zipper pull and then insert the cut side. Firmly holding both tapes, slide the zipper pull up the zipper teeth.

9.    Trim to 11cm (4 3/8") square. My method is to use my rotary cutter to cut the fabric and scissors to cut zipper tape.

10.    Turn inside out. Open the zipper about 4cm (11/2"). Leaving at least a 1cm (3/8") tail at the beginning, place the binding strip wrong side up on the pouch zipper side facing up, aligned with the raw edge (fig. 10-1). Stitch using a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance. Stop one stitch before or over the zipper teeth, stitch off at a 45 degree angle (fig.10-2). Lift the foot and needle and fold up 45 degree angle and fold down with the binding edge aligned with the edge (fig.10-3). Put the needle back in and start stitching again. Leaving a 1cm (3/8") tail, trim off the excess binding strip.

NOTE: To avoid breaking a needle, stitch slowly when you go over the zipper teeth.

11.    Trim the seam allowance to 0.7cm (1/4") and cut the corner.

12.    Folding the tails inside, fold the binding strip over the raw edge. Fold it again over the seam. Handstitch in place. Open the zipper all the way. Turn it right side out through the opening. Push out the corners using a point turner