Tutorial: Slim Messenger Bag

I want to tell you how to make your own slim satchel.  This tutorial is pretty rough, it's just the basic how-to, so it's a good tutorial for experienced seamstresses who have put bags together before.  

As in all sewing projects, read and understand all the directions before you begin.  This will save you a lot of headaches.

STEP 1: CUTTING PIECES

Main bag: cut four pieces fabric 15x15"
Main bag midweight fusible interfacing: cut four pieces 14x14"
Inside slip pockets: cut four pieces fabric 15x15"
Inside slip pocket interfacing: cut two pieces 14x14"
Outside slip pocket: cut one fabric and interfacing 5 1/2 x 10"
Flap: cut two pieces 11x14" w/ curved edge (use a dinner plate for a perfect curve)
Flap fusible fleece: cut one piece same as flap fabric but trim 1/2" around entire piece so fleece is smaller than flap fabric
Strap: cut two pieces fabric and interfacing 2x52"
Strap loop: cut two pieces fabric and interfacing 2x4"
Button loop: 1 1/2 x 8"

STEP 2: GATHERING MATERIALS

Need: sewing machine, thread that complements fabric, a 1" strap slider, a 1" square loop for strap, one large button

STEP 3: APPLYING INTERFACINGS

Apply pieces of interfacing according to manufacturer's instructions to wrong sides of both pieces of main bag fabric, one piece of each of the inside slip pockets, one piece of the outside pocket, both pieces of strap fabric, both pieces of strap loop fabric.  Apply fusible fleece to one piece of flap fabric.

STEP 4: ASSEMBLE POCKETS

For all pockets, stitch wrong sides together, leaving a gap for turning.  Turn and press well.  These will be your two inside slip pockets and your outside slip pocket.

Fold inside pocket fabric up so that length measures 8.5"

Run vertical stitches up fabric to create your pockets as you desire.

Stitch outside slip pocket onto interfaced panel of back body fabric.  Don't sew it too close to the bottom of the main body fabric.  Divide into two pockets.

Lay slip pockets on right side of one piece of main bag fabric and sew slip pockets into panel of back body fabric.  Sew 1" down from top of back panel.

STEP 5: ASSEMBLE BAG

With right sides facing, sew both pieces of back panel fabric together leaving a gap for turning.  Turn and press.  This is the back of your bag with pockets attached.  Repeat for front panel.

You'll sew the body pieces together with a french seam: place the main pieces of your bag together with the inside slip pockets on the inside.  Stitch around both sides and bottom of bag.  Turn bag inside out.  Stitch same three sides with a slightly larger seam allowance.  Turn right side out again and stitch across bottom corners at a right angle to side seam to give the bag depth.  Trim triangle off.  Turn wrong side out.  Stitch along the same line with a slightly larger seam allowance.   Turn right side out again.

STEP 6: ASSEMBLE FLAP AND BUTTON LOOP, APPLY TO BAG

For button loop, fold in long edges of fabric to middle and press.  Then fold in half again and press.  Stitch along folds to secure.

With wrong sides together, sew flap pieces together, inserting button loop facing the inside as you stitch around curve of flap.  Leave a gap for turning at top of flap.  Clip curve and turn right side out.  Press well.  Sew flap onto the outside of the back of your bag with two parallel horizontal lines of stitching, being sure to tuck under and stitch turning gap closed.

STEP 7: ADDING BUTTON AND STRAP

Handsew on button so that it properly lines up with button loop.  Be sure not to sew through your slip pockets.  You'll have to work around your inside pockets which can be cumbersome.  I used embroidery floss to sew my button on since my button was so large.  I wanted to make sure it didn't come off.

Stitch two pieces of strap fabric together, wrong sides together, and turn right side out.  Sew long sides of strap loop together wrong sides together and turn right side out.  Press both these pieces well.

Turn under raw edges of strap loop and insert metal loop.  Fold strap loop in half and stitch into the inside of your bag right across the top of one of the side seams.  Secure by stitching a strongbox.

Turn under raw edges of strap, press and thread through strap slider and metal loop properly.  (This part is very confusing for me so I won't even try to explain it, just look at a bag you already have with an adjustable strap or google a how-to.)  Stitch other end of strap fabric to other side seam of bag and secure by sewing a strongbox.

Now your bag is ready to be filled up and shown off around town!