I absolutely love knitting on circulars and this tutorial is so handy for keeping them neat and not ruining your cords. Plus the part about adding a zip pocket can be used in lots of other projects too.
I’m going to show you how to make a really useful pouch for storing your circular knitting needles. They can be pesky things with their little cords refusing to stay tidy but this pouch will have them sorted in a jiffy, there is even a little zip pocket for keeping stitch markers safe! Lets go….
You will need:
1 FQ for the exterior
1 FQ for Interior
1 FQ for Pockets
1 FQ for Zip pocket and binding
1 FQ wadding
1 FQ medium weight iron on interfacing
6″ Metal Zip (if using a nylon zip you can use a longer one)
5″ Elastic cord
2 Buttons
Coordinating thread
Optional : Cotton tape and rubber stamps and ink pad for making size labels.
Cut:
one 13″ x 16″ from exterior fabric
one 13″ x 16″ from interior fabric
one 13″ x 16″ from interfacing
one 13″ x 16″ from wadding
two 3 1/2″ x 8″ from zip pocket fabric
two 1 3/4″ x 16″ from binding fabric
one 5 1/2″ x 16″ from pocket fabric and interfacing
one 5 3/4″ x 16″ from pocket fabric and interfacing
Fuse interfacing to back of the two pocket pieces and exterior piece.
If adding size labels:
Make up size labels using the cotton tape and stamps if you wish to include them in the project. Mark the top edge of the two pockets at the following intervals, starting from the left hand side:
2″, 5″, 8″, 11″, 14″
and pin the size labels in place over these marks. The larger pocket piece will sit at the top/behind.
Place a binding strip down over the labels, right side facing the right side of the pocket piece, align edges and sew using a 1/2″ seam allowance (this will secure the labels in place).
Press the binding up away from the pocket and fold around to the back, press. Stitch in the ditch along the edge of the binding, this will catch and hold the binding down at the back.
Mark a line along the bottom edge of the larger pocket 1/4″ from the edge. Put the wadding behind the interior piece and lay the larger pocket on top of it, 2″ up from the bottom edge. Stitch along the marked line.
Lay the remaining pocket on top, aligning the bottom edges and mark the following lines starting from the left edge:
3 1/2″, 6 1/2″, 9 1/2″, 12 1/2″
Sew down these lines to create the pockets and then baste around the 3 sides.
Now we move onto the zip pocket. On the reverse of one zip pocket piece draw a line 1″ down from the top edge, ending 1″ from each side. Draw an identical line 1 1/2″ down and connect the two to form a box.
Place on top of the outer piece 3/4″ from each edge on the bottom right corner, rst.
Sew around the box using a short stitch length then cut down the center of the box and out into the corners.
Push pocket through the hole and press to the back.
Centre zip behind the opening, glue baste or pin into place and top stitch in place. If using a metal zip you will have to ensure you do not top stitch over any of the metal teeth, my zip was a little too long so I used pliers to remove a few of the teeth. If you are using a nylon zip you can use a longer zip and sew across it with no worry.
Trim the ends of the zip away and place remaining zip pocket piece rst on top of zip pocket and stitch around all 4 edges using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Take two 2 1/2″ lengths of elastic and loop then baste into place on the left hand side of the interior piece placing them 2 1/2″ and 6 1/2″ up from the bottom edge.
Put outer piece RST with the inner piece, making sure to line up the zip pocket with the elastics. Stitch all the way around the outside edge using a 1/2″ seam allowance and leave a 3-4″ gap in the top edge for turning though.
Clip corners and turn right way out then press well. Top stitch 1/8″ from edge. Draw a line 2 1/2″ down from the top edge and top stitch along the line to create a flap.
Load up with your knitting needles and roll the pouch up to determine where you’d like the two buttons to be positioned and attach the
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