Whenever I try a tutorial that doesn't have a pattern, because it's just a square and there are no angled or rounded parts, I'll make my own pattern [based on that size] on kalen paper. der, the back is usually plain white. This is to make it easier to correct if there is a size error, the most common thing that happens to me when measuring is that there are two sides [usually opposite] that are not the same size, straight and the same size but more shifted to one side, so it doesn't fit when folded two facing each other. It's a hassle when this happens to fabric that has been cut neatly, right?
Tip #1. Use the plain back side of the calendar. And usually, calendar paper is thicker and stiffer than regular HVS paper, making it easier to trace on the fabric later.
This tutorial will produce two half-triangle pouches at once.
What you need:
Two pieces of fabric for the outer. Preferably wide enough to cut into a right triangle with 27cm sides on two equal lengths. And it's best to use small fabric patterns.
One 30.5 x 30.5 cm square piece of fabric for the inner and binding [bisban].
One piece of batting [I used T103] measuring 27 x 27 cm.
Two zipper sheets of 40 cm or more and two zipper heads. Iron/metal zippers and invisible zipper [Japanese zipper] cannot be used in this tutorial.
Rotary cutter and base
Acrylic ruler [if available] or regular ruler
Clover wonder clip [if available], before I had this clip, I used to use that black colored paper clip, which is the smallest in size
Frixion pen or fabric pen
Cutting:
Cut a right-angled triangle, each side 27 cm long, on the outer fabric.
Cut two right-angled triangles from a square inner fabric with a side length of 30.5 cm. Each side of the triangles is 26 cm long. Then cut the remaining center of the inner fabric into two strips of equal width [3 cm]. These strips will be the bisban. So adjust the calendar paper at right angles [90 degrees].
Tip #2. Use masking tape when tracing the pattern, so that the paper does not shift. Make sure one or two pieces of masking tape are attached to the table or mat used as a base.
How to sew:
Place the outer fabric in a right-angled triangle RST [right side together = good side facing]. Sew with a seam allowance of 1 cm from the edge of the beveled/pitagoras side. Iron the seam in the center to open it up.
Tip #3. Always iron the seams to make them look neater. This method also helps when we want to do top stitch as a closing stitch.
Tape/attach the batting to the bad side of the outer fabric. I used T103 which has no adhesive, so I just ironed the batting on the bad side of the outer fabric to make it "temporarily sticky".
Quilt the outer fabric and batting. In addition to holding it together, this quilting can also act as a decoration. So, it's okay to use non-adhesive batting, we don't need glue either. Kanako-san elaborated that she used a 2 mm gap between stitches. Use a frixion pen or fabric pen to make straight lines on the outer fabric, this step will make the quilting process easier.
Trim the excess batting edges, adjusting to the size of the outer fabric
Cut the trimmed outer+batting fabric diagonally so that each half-cut has both fabric patterns. Attach the zipper-without head on the good side of the fabric, following the slanted side of the fabric, just leave the excess zipper. Then sew the zipper. At this point, it starts to look like we're going to make 2 pouches at once. *I differentiated them by putting different types of zippers [plastic and iron] to make them easy to identify for this tutorial, but for the record, it's best not to use iron zippers because the installation of the zipper head is a bit tricky.
Then, place the RST inner fabric. So that the zipper is between the good side of the outer+batting fabric and the inner fabric [I call it "sandwich"]. Sew the zipper and the inner, following/overwriting the previous zipper stitches on the outer+batting fabric. Then, iron [the bad sides of the outer and inner fabric are inside/face to face] and top stitch to make it look professional and neat.
Fold the fabric right in the middle of the zipper, so that it forms a square box with the zipper part in the middle, pointing diagonally. use a clover wonder clip to maintain the shape, or it can be temporarily hand stitched [basting stitch].
Attach the zipper head. Plastic zipper heads and regular zippers are easier to attach than metal zipper heads. Because we only use one of the zipper blades, there are teeth of the metal zipper that cannot fit-not closed tightly.
Tip #4. If it is difficult to insert the zipper head, cut a row of zipper teeth at the end [2 cm long only]. There is usually excess zipper length, so this can be cut off at the row of teeth. Attach the zipper head to the blade that does not have teeth cut first, and then attach it to the blade that has teeth cut. Pull the zipper head as usual, while holding the ends of the two zipper slats.
When the zipper head is in place, cut off the excess fabric and zipper, resulting in an 11 x 11 cm square. To make it easier, use a rotary cutter and quilting ruler. Then flip the fabric over so that the inner fabric is on the outside.
Prepare the strip that will be the bisban [the result of the inner fabric cut]. Open the zipper about 4 cm. Sew the bisban straight on the edge of the trimmed inner fabric. Stop sewing before hitting the zipper, fold 45 degrees at the corner, fold the bisban following the corner, then sew. *At the beginning and end of the bisban, leave an edge of about 1 cm, cut off the excess bisban, fold it inward so that the cut edge does not unravel easily.
Fold the unsewn side of the bisban inward. Either hand stitch with a ladder stitch, or use a special bias tape sewing shoe [if you have one].
And here is the result on the inside. Flip the fabric through the exposed zipper. And you're done!
Difficulty level: * * * for beginner who wants to dive deeper.
There are several points of difficulty in making this seemingly simple pouch, especially for beginners, namely, sewing a neat zipper, reattaching the zipper head, and sewing bisban/bias tape. But I'm sure you'll enjoy the process, because once the pouch is finished, all the hassle is forgotten and it feels great!
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