Dimensions of finished bag: width: 36 cm / height: 28 cm / depth: 10 cm.
Materials required:
- A 20 cm zipper.
- One 50 x 92 cm piece for the outside of the bag.
- One 50 x 92 cm piece for the inside of the bag.
- A 50 x 92 cm piece of wadding (or fleece) for the interlining.
- A 26 x 23 cm piece for the pocket.
- A scrap of iron-on canvas, approx. 26 x 4 cm.
- Magnetic snap.
- Matching thread.
Option: if you prefer to use webbing for your handles, you'll need 120 cm. So 40 cm of
for the exterior, lining and tri-fold of your bag...
Pattern pieces :
Sewing margins are 1 cm and included in the pattern, so that's great!
Pieces 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 form trapezoids with large base 46 cm, small base
base 40 cm and height 35 cm as shown below:
Small base 40 cm
Large base 46 cm
Bag exterior (parts 1 and 2)
Bag interior (parts 3 and 4)
Wadding (parts 5 and 6)
Pocket (part 7)
26 x 23 cm
Outer handles (parts 8 and 9)
60 x 6.5 cm
Inner handles (parts 10 and 11)
60 x 6.5 cm
Lining (parts 12 and 13)
60 x 6.5 cm
Iron-on canvas (part 14)
26 x 4 cm
Step-by-step instructions:
1-Cut out the 14 pattern pieces.
(TIP: for cleaner work, feel free to trace your outlines with an erasable thermo-pencil, A little ironing will remove all pen marks! Magic, isn't it! You'll find You'll find them in any supermarket!)
2-Surfile pieces 1, 2, 3, 4 and 7 with a zig-zag stitch or serger.
3-Lining the outside of the bag: to do this, pin your two pieces of wadding (pieces
5 and 6) on the reverse side of pieces 1 and 2, then sew 5 mm from the edge.
4-Preparation of your handles :
You have chosen to make your handles in your fabrics:
Double the outer parts (pieces 8 and 9) of your future handles using your wadding fabric
(pieces 12 and 13), sewing it to the wrong side of your fabric, 5 mm from the edge.
Next, pin your pieces 8 and 10 right sides together, then 9 and 11.
- If your lining is thin, sew each of your handles along both lengths, turn over and topstitch approx. 3 mm from the edge.
- If your lining is thick, sew each of your handles to one of the two lengths only.
Turn your work right side out. Iron. Fold the edges of your second length over themselves with an iron, then topstitch your handle on either side, about 3 mm from the edge.
You've chosen to make your handles from webbing: simply cut it in half.
5-In either option, your two handles are ready! Sew each one with a zig-zag stitch on your two outer pieces (1 and 2), 9 cm on either side of the ends.
Don't hesitate to make several passes (back and forth on the machine) for greater strength.
6-Place these two pieces 1 and 2 right sides together (so your straps will be sandwiched), pin them in place and sew the sides and bottom of your bag in straight stitch. then sew the sides and bottom of your bag in straight stitch.
7-Shape the two bottom corners of your bag: to do this, keep your bag upside down, pinch the bottom of the bag and each side between your thumb and forefinger, spreading your seam allowances. Make a mark 5 cm from the end of the bag, then draw a line perpendicular to your seam. Make sure your seams coincide on the right side to achieve for a good fit. Sew two back-and-forth seams for a stronger bag! stronger! Cut the corner 1 cm from your seam with notched scissors. Repeat the on the other side.
8-Preparing your inner pocket:
Now you've reached the tricky part of this tutorial, take a deep breath, breathe and concentrate ;-)
- Iron your scrap iron-on fabric (part 14) onto the reverse side of your piece 3, about 9 cm from the top (small base), so that it's centered. centered.
- Locate the middle of the small base of your part 3, then draw a perpendicular line perpendicular line, going downwards (to do this, use a thermo erasable pencil erasable pencil or chalk).
- Mark out points at 10.5 cm / 11 cm / 11.5 cm and from these points draw 3 new lines new lines perpendicular (20 cm) to the very first one that came down from your small base.
- Draw a rectangle measuring 20 cm x 1 cm.
- At each end, draw a small triangle whose vertex is 1 cm from the short sides. sides.
- Then cut your opening, but be careful to stop at 1 mm from the edges. do not cut your corners.
- Fold your opening inwards and iron it. Open your slider, pin your zipper, then sew (with your FE presser foot) all around, a few millimeters from the edge. FE presser foot) all around, a few millimeters from the edge.
9-Sewing your inside pocket :
- Sew your pocket base to your FE: to do this, start by placing your lining your lining face down. Pin the right side of your pocket bottom (the side that 23 cm) to the wrong side of your FE (bottom). Sew a few millimeters from the edge (don't sew your lining at the same time!).
- Fold your pocket right sides together to place your second 23 cm on your FE. Pin and sew a few millimeters from the edge.
- Finally, sew each side of your pocket.
CAUTION, the seams on the FE can be fatal for your needle, so take it easy ;-)
That's it! You've done it, congratulations :-)
10-Place pieces 3 and 4 right sides together. Pin and sew your right side, your underside of the bag, leaving an opening of about 15 cm (which will allow you to your work) and then your left side.
11-Repeat step 7 with the pieces you've just sewn.
12-Place the two resulting bags (outer and lining) inside each other, right sides together. right sides together. Pin the top of the bag together, making sure your side seams are facing each other facing each other and ensuring that the seam allowances are well apart. Your handles are sandwiched together. Stitch 1 cm from the edge, all the way around (don't hesitate to go back and forth back and forth on your handles).
13-Turn your work right side out, then iron the top of the bag. Topstitch topstitch with matching thread, all around the top about 5 mm from the edge.
14-Place your magnetized snap into your lining, adding a small piece of fleece of fleece for added strength (be sure to match the two snaps so you don't end up with a crooked to avoid ending up with a crooked bag ;-)).
15- Close the bottom of your bag with the machine.
And that's it!... it's over... See you soon!
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