Make a useful sewing machine bag in a fabric t hat suits your decor.
Sewing machine bags tend to be black or navy and a bit dull, so why not make your own in a fabric you like? I used quite heavy woven cotton in two patterns, and canvas as thick as I could sew through. The size will fi t a standard size sewing machine with a bit of room to spare, but you could adapt the measurements for a larger machine. I used foam board for the base which is sturdy enough but can be cut through.
Finished size
To fit a standard size sewing machine
Materials
✦ Two 43 x 35.5cm (17 x 14in) pieces of heavy cotton fabric, for the front and back
✦ Two 43 x 35.5cm (17 x 14in) pieces of canvas, for the front and back
✦ Two 43 x 35.5cm (17 x 14in) pieces of fusible adhesive, for the front and back
✦ Two 23cm (9in) squares of fabric, for the pocket
✦ 23cm (9in) length of lace to trim the pocket
✦ One 43 x 20.5cm (17 x 8in) piece of fabric, for the bottom of the case
✦ One 43 x 20.5cm (17 x 8in) piece of canvas, for the bottom of the case
✦ One 43 x 20.5cm (17 x 8in) piece of fusible adhesive, for the bottom of the case
✦ One 51 x 25.5cm (20 x 10in) piece of fabric, for the hard inner base
✦ One 40.5 x 18cm (16 x 7in) piece of foam board, for the hard inner base
✦ 229cm (90in) length of canvas webbing for the handles
✦ One 117 x 20.5cm (46 x 8in) length of fabric (this should be generous), for the zipped section
✦ One 117 x 20.5cm (46 x 8in) length of lining, for the zipped section
✦ One 117cm (46in) continuous zip with two sliders meeting in the middle
✦ Four bag feet
✦ Spray fabric adhesive
✦ Saucer to use as a template
Preparation
All measurements include 6mm (1⁄4in) seam allowances, unless otherwise stated.
MAKING THE BAG
1 For the front and back, take the two 43 x 35.5cm (17 x 14in) pieces of fabric and the two 43 x 35.5cm (17 x 14in) pieces of canvas. Using a hot iron, apply a 43 x 35.5cm (17 x 14in) piece of fusible adhesive to each piece of canvas; peel off the backing and re-iron onto the wrong side of your fabric. See Fig 1.
2 Using a saucer as a template, round off the top two corners of each rectangle made in Step 1. See Figs 2 and 3.
3 For the pocket, take the two 23cm (9in) squares of fabric, sew them right sides together, top and bottom, to make a tube; turn right side out and press. Debbie added a strip of lace to the top, but you could use ribbon if you prefer. See Figs 4 and 5.
4 For the bottom of the bag, take the 43 x 20.5cm (17 x 8in) piece of fabric and the 43 x 20.5cm (17 x 8in) piece of canvas; fuse them wrong sides together with the 43 x 20.5cm (17 x 8in) piece of fusible adhesive. See Fig 6.
5 For the hard inner base, take the 51 x 25.5cm (20 x 10in) piece of fabric and wrap it around the 40.5 x 18cm (16 x 7in) piece foam board; glue to secure. See Figs 7 and 8.
6 Right sides together, sew the bottom of the front and back pieces to the bag base. See Fig 9.
7 Place the pocket in the centre of the front panel and sew down each side and across the bottom. See Fig 10.
8 Pin the canvas webbing in place to form the handles, starting with the centre of the strip at the base of the bag, going up the front, looping over the top for the handle, and back down the other side. Make sure both sides are an equal distance from the sides, and approx 19cm (7 1⁄2in) apart, covering the sides of the pocket. Complete the handle on the back in the same way. See Fig 11.
9 Sew the handle in place – to leave room for fitting the zipped section, make sure you don’t sew too close to the top of the bag on either the front or the back. For extra strength, sew a square with a cross inside it at the top of each side of both handles. See Figs 12 and 13.
10 Fold the handles in half where you’ll hold them and then stitch together. See Fig 14.
11 For the zipped section, take the 117 x 20.5cm (46 x 8in) length of fabric and the 117 x 20.5cm (46 x 8in) length of lining; cut them in half lengthways.
12 Sew the first edge of the zip face down onto a long strip of fabric. Lay the lining strip over the top and sew again. If you are confi dent, you can do this in one movement, sandwiching the zip between
the two strips. Open up and press, then stitch the other side of the zip to the remaining two strips in the same way. Open up and press again. See Figs 15 and 16.
13 Sew all the way around the outside of this panel to hold its shape, and topstitch around the zipper. See Fig 17.
14 Lay your bag face up; pin the zipped panel face down to the base and sew across one end. Leave the other end for now. See Fig 18.
15 Pin the side of the zipped panel all the way around one side of the bag, and then sew. If your fabric is too thick to pin, you can use quilters’ clips instead. See Figs 19 and 20.
16 Pin and sew the other side of the zipped panel to the second side of the bag. Open the zip enough to turn and finally sew the base of the bag to the other end of the zipped panel. You will find that the zip needs trimming by approx 2.5cm (1in). Debbie allowed plenty to make sure the zip wasn’t too short – it is easier to shorten the zip than to try to add length to it! Stitch the remaining short side of the zipper panel to the bottom of the bag. See Fig 21.
Handy hint
If you don’t want the zip to open all the way, then place a spot of glue at the point where you want it to stop.
17 Turn your bag the right way round. See Fig 22.
18 Push a bag foot through the base of the bag, close to each corner, and fix; see ‘Handy hint'. The feet secure all the layers of the bag base together. If you don’t want to see them, cover them with another piece of fabric. See Figs 23 and 24.
Handy hint
When making bags that will sit on the floor, bag feet will help to keep it clean, and at the same time
give a professional look to your project. The feet are like large brads. You’ll need to make a hole with a
sharp tool where the feet are to be positioned, then push the foot through from the bottom. Open the
post slightly and thread on the clip to secure from the top, and then open up the post completely.
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