Square Bottom Zipper Pouch Tutorial

Square Bottom Zipper Pouch Free Sewing Tutorial and Pattern

Finished size: Approx 25.5cm wide x 16.1cm (10” x 6.3”) (width taken across the top)

Requirements:

The following measurements will give you a zipper pouch measuring 25.5cm x 15.8cm, with a bottom 5cm wide. See the instructions at the end of this tutorial to work out your requirements if you want to make a different size.

Fabric
28cm x 21cm (11” x 8.5”) x2 in your external fabric and x2 in your internal fabric.
2 x 5cm x 7.5cm (2” x 3”) for the tabs (these appear at each end of the zip). 

Interfacing
This is a matter of personal choice, I wanted a squidgy but smooth feel, so opted to add two layers, the first was medium weight fusible interfacing and the second low loft fusible fleece (H630).
Each piece should be 25.5cm x 18.5cm (10” x 7.5”).

Zipper
1 zip 25cm (10”) long (you could get a larger one and cut the end off).

Instructions

Take one of your main fabric pieces. Looking at the bottom left corner, draw a square 3.7cm x 3.7cm (¾” x ¾”) (see below). Repeat on the right side then cut the squares out.

Repeat with the remaining fabric and interfacing pieces.
Iron the interfacing onto the fabric pieces, each piece of interfacing is smaller than the main fabric pieces, this is correct, it reduces the bulk in the seam allowances. Simply line the interfacings up centrally on the back of the fabric pieces, you will have a border of approx. 1.2cm of fabric on each side of the interfacing. Iron into place.

Put these pieces to one side.
Fold one of your tab fabric pieces in half, wrong sides facing each other, so that the short ends meet iron. Open the fabric out and fold the raw edges into the centre fold line. Iron. Fold in half again, along the first crease line and press once more. Repeat with the second zipper end piece.

Unfold one of your tabs and place centrally under one end of your zip. So that you are looking at the front of the fabric and front of the zip. The end of the zip should be in line with the top raw edge of the tab. Sew across the top, 6mm (¼”) in from the raw edge (before the first crease line in the fabric piece)

Fold the piece of fabric back up, following the original crease lines, capturing the zip end in the middle (see images below). Sew across the fabric, close to the folded edge.

MAKE SURE THE ZIPPER PULL is attached to the tape.
Line your zip up against one of your fabric panels, you need to leave 1.4cm (1 and 6 8ths of an inch) of main panel fabric clear before and after the zip (on the left and right), this is very important as it allows the zip to sit squarely in the finished pouch.
When you are happy that the length of the zip is correct, cut any excess tape away. Sew a ‘bar’ across the end by sewing a few stitches over the zipper tape (these are called whip stitches). Now sew the second tab into place

Take one of your external fabric pieces, place the zip onto top, so that:-
- you are looking at the back of the zip
- you are looking at the front of the fabric
- the long edge of the zipper tape is lined up with the top raw edge of the fabric piece.
- there is approx. 1.4cm (1& 6/8ths”) of main fabric showing at each end of the zip

Baste the zip into place 3mm (1/8th”) from the top edge.
Place one of your internal fabric pieces on top of the zip, so that the zip is sandwiched between the two pieces of fabric, the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other, and the raw edges are lined up on all sides. Sew together, so that the sew line is a few mms (2/8th”) from the zipper tape teeth, on the side closest to the raw edges (the top edge).
Fold both the fabric pieces back along the seam line, so you are looking at the right sides of the fabric and you can see the zip, press the fabric away from the zip.
Top stitch the fabric pieces, approx. 3mm (1/8th”) in from the seam line (this step stops the fabric getting eaten by the zip when in use).

Place the remaining main piece on top of the zipper tape, so that:
- the right sides of the fabric pieces are facing each other.
- The left and right edges of the top piece line up with the fabric piece underneath.
- The top is lined up with the top of the zipper tape.
Baste into place.
Turnover and pin your internal fabric piece on top, so that the zip tape is sandwiched between the external and internal fabric pieces. Ensuring that:
- the right sides of the fabric pieces are facing each other.
- The left and right edges of the top piece line up with the fabric piece underneath.
- The top is lined up with the top of the zipper tape.
Sew together.
Fold both the fabric pieces back, so you are looking at the right sides of the fabric pieces, and press. Top stitch just below the seam line.

Check your zip works properly (that you can open and close it easily). Leave the zip half unzipped – THIS IS A CRITICAL STEP!
Arrange the fabric pieces, so that the internal pieces are on top of each other, and the external pieces are on top of each other (right sides facing). Pin each pair together, taking care around the zip to make sure each set is perfectly lined up.
Sew together LEAVING the cut out corners unsewn, AND a turning gap of 5cm (2”) half way up one side of the lining fabric pouch.

Next you need to sew the boxed corners. Looking at the bottom right corner, squash the side and bottom seams together, so that they are on top of each other and the raw, unsewn corner edges, are lined up (see below). Pin together and sew across the unsewn edge using the usual seam allowance.

Repeat this process on the remaining sides.
Trim back the seam allowance on all sides.

Now turn your pouch out the right way by pulling the fabric through the gap you left in the lining.
Make sure you push all the corners out, including those around the zip.
Fold the raw edges at the turning point into the gap, iron and then top stitch this section closed, as close to the edge as you feel comfortable.

Push the internal pouch inside the external one and you’re done